The Avant-Garden Shop: Your Garden & Bird Store

Garden Gate: Episode 14 – Attracting Butterfly’s to your garden

CHEX TV air date: June 14th, 2013

Click here to watch this episode of?The Garden Gate.

Brightly colored butterflies and moths can be a welcome addition to your wildlife garden, not only because of their beauty, but also because of their usefulness in pollinating flowers.

Attracting butterflies and moths involves incorporating plants that serve the needs of all life stages of the butterfly. The insects need places to lay eggs, food plants for their larvae (caterpillars) and nectar sources for adults. ?With a little research you can determine what needs to go into your butterfly garden.

Butterfly & Moth, Garden Necessities

Butterfly_Weed_Asclepias_tuberosa_UmbelPlant native flowering plants: Butterflies and moths rely heavily on local native flowering plants for survival and reproduction. Native plants provide butterflies with the nectar or foliage they need as adults and caterpillars.? The Ecology Park has a list of local natives that will provide what our local butterfly?s need. They also sell many of these plants.

Plant type and color is important: Adult butterflies are attracted to bright colours such as red, yellow, orange, pink and purple blossoms that are flat-topped or clustered and have short flower tubes.

Plant good nectar sources in the sun: Your key butterfly nectar source plants should receive full sun from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Butterfly adults generally feed only in the sun. If sun is limited in your landscape, try adding butterfly nectar sources to the vegetable garden.

Plant for continuous bloom: Butterflies need nectar throughout the adult phase of their life span. Try to plant so that when one plant stops blooming, another begins.

Say no to insecticides: Insecticides are marketed to kill insects. Don’t use these materials in or near the butterfly garden or better, anywhere on your property. Even “benign” insecticides, such as Bacillus thuringiensis, are lethal to butterflies (while caterpillars).

caterpillar-emergingFeed butterfly caterpillars: If you don’t “grow” caterpillars, there will be no adults. Bringing caterpillar foods into your garden can greatly increase your chances of attracting unusual and uncommon butterflies, while giving you yet another reason to plant an increasing variety of native plants. In many cases, caterpillars of a species feed on only a very limited variety of plants. Most butterfly caterpillars never cause the leaf damage we associate with some moth caterpillars such as bagworms, tent caterpillars, or gypsy moths.

Provide a place for butterflies to rest: Butterflies need sun for orientation and to warm their wings for flight. Place flat stones in your garden to provide space for butterflies to rest and bask in the sun.

puddleGive them a place for puddling: Butterflies often congregate on wet sand and mud to partake in “puddling,” drinking water and extracting minerals from damp puddles. Place coarse sand in a shallow pan and then insert the pan in the soil of your habitat. Make sure to keep the sand moist.

 

?Common Butterflies and Moths and the Plants Their Caterpillars Eat

  • Black Swallowtail – parsley, dill, fennel, common rue
  • Cecropia Moth – many trees and shrubs, including birch, lilac, cherry, apple, willow, ashes and elms.
  • Eastern Tiger Swallowtail – wild black cherry, ash, tulip tree, willow, sweetbay, basswood
  • Five spotted hawk moth (Tomato Horn worm)– Larvae ? plants in the nightshade family such ground cherry, potato and tomato.? Adults ? seek nectar from Japanese honeysuckle, bouncing bet, tobacco and a variety of garden plants such as petunia
  • Great spangled fritillary – Violets
  • clearwing_hummingbird_mothHummingbird moth – Larvae ? viburnums, hawthorns, honeysuckles, snowberry, cherries, plums
    Adults ? seek nectar from bergamot, beebalm, lilac, red clover, phlox, Japanese honeysuckle and thistles
  • Luna Moth – birch preferred, but also walnut and several other tree species
  • Monarch ? milkweeds, butterfly bush
  • Mourning Cloak – willow, elm and birch
  • Painted Lady – composite flowers, including thistles, knapweed, burdock and others
  • Polyphemus Moth – many trees, including oak, birch, ash, grape, hickory, maple
  • Red Admiral/White Admiral – wild cherries, black oaks, aspens, yellow and black birch
  • Silver-Spotted Skipper – pea family; black locust, hog peanut, showy tick trefoil, false indigo
  • Sphinx Moth – poplars and willows
  • Sulphurs – clover, peas, vetch, alfalfa, asters
  • Variegated Fritillary – passion flower, violets, stonecrop, purslane
  • Viceroy – willows, cottonwood, aspen and poplar
  • Wooly Bear Moth Larvae ? many low growing herbaceous and woody plants such as asters, dandelion, plantain, grass, nettle, clover, meadowsweet
    Adults ? a variety of flowers

Resources: National Wildlife Federation, Ontario Nature Magazine

 

 

Garden Gate: Episode 13 – Why are the birds not feeding from my feeder?

Backyard---5-10-07-008

CHEX TV air date: Fri. May 31st, 2013

Click here to watch this episode of ?The Garden Gate.

During prime finch feeding season, almost weekly I have customers coming in to purchase a new feeder because they?ve lost their finches. Initially when they put up their feeder they get lots of finches but at a certain point they stop coming. Have you experienced this?

My first question is ?Where did you get your Nyger seed??? Often the response is, ?Oh, I don?t remember, maybe the grocery store.?? There?s your answer. The seed is probably old and dried out. There is oil inside the shell that the finches are after. If it?s dried out, they aren?t interested.? Generally your Nyger seed should be no more than 6 months old. If it?s any older it could be stale, there is no oil and chances are it?s gone moldy.? You can?t necessarily see the mold, but the birds can smell it and will not eat it. The seed may look dusty and dull when it’s moldy. Who likes moldy food? I know that I don?t.

One way to check the freshness of your Nyger seed is to pinch the seed with your fingernails and see if any oil comes out. The finches use their bills to twist the seed and sip the oil and then drop the shell. If your seed has dried out the birds may check the seed but then leave unsatsified. We receive fresh seed each week that is properly controlled by our supplier Mill Creek, Canada’s?Premier?specialty bird store supplier. ?Buy small quantities of Nyger to ensure that you?ll go through it within a month or two.? All seed should be ?New crop? seed. This means it is from the most recent growing year. Ask your supplier how old their seed is.? If they can’t answer that question, go somewhere where they can. We don?t know how old ?Old crop? seed is. Could be years?

Keep your feeders full! Finches are notorious for leaving a tube feeder half full. They love to be on the highest perches and empty the top half of your feeder and then leave. Don’t just top off your feeder with fresh seed. Empty the older seed (if it’s still good) into a different container, fill the bottom of your feeder with new seed and top it off with the older seed. The birds will probably eat down to that certain level again and you’ll have to repeat the process.? One nice feature of the Aspects Finch feeder is that you can open it very easily from the bottom. I suggest tipping the half full feeder so the older seed goes to the top, opening the bottom and filling from the bottom. This circulates your seed.

Tap your finch feeder to prevent seed from “bridging”. Seed cavities occur when the air is humid. The dampness allows the seed to cling together and will form a cavity when birds select through the portal. This is called “bridging.” Tap your feeder every time you pass by and at a minimum every week.

In the spring when the dandelions are blooming and going to seed, the finches spend more time eating the dandelion seed?than going to your feeder. Birds generally only take 25% of their food from feeders and 75% from nature. So when the natural seeds are available they prefer those and will spend less time at your feeder. You may also notice that birds disappear for a few days each week. They are probably visiting their natural food sources, but will eventually return.

Consider the location of your feeder as well. The most important place to hang a feeder is where you can watch it easily, but I?ve found the goldfinches feel more comfortable with the feeder near trees. I have several feeders hanging around the house and a couple on a pole in the open in the back of the house. All the feeders have birds but I fill the feeders in the trees twice as much.

402My favourite feeders?are either the Droll Yankees or Aspects Finch Feeders. Several birds can feed at a time, the seed stays dry, and they are easy to clean, easy to fill, have lifetime guarantees and are made in the USA. If you’re thinking of switching feeders be aware that finches don’t like change and it may take several minutes to several months for Goldfinches to accept a new feeder. If you run into this problem, take the feeder that they are using away for a few days and put the new feeder in its place. Once they feed from it, you can return the other feeders.? I like to compare it?to going to your favourite restaurant. You know what you’re going to get, and prefer to keep going back instead of being adventurous and going a new restaurant. Birds are the same. They’ll continue to go back to a feeder they are use to before trying out a new feeder.
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Nyger seed used to be called thistle, but it is not the noxious thistle weed we see growing on roadsides. It typically will not germinate under your feeders since it is required that all Nyger seed imported be heat-treated to sterilize the seed.

Nyger seed is one of the favourite seeds of goldfinches, Pine Siskins, Common Redpolls and other small-billed seed-eating birds.? We’ve also seen nuthatches, chickadees, doves, Downy Woodpeckers, and other small birds eating it.

Is it worth the bother? Yes! I love the happy, sweet, song of the Goldfinches. I love the huge flocks of finches that flutter down from the tops of trees as they take their turn at the feeder. I love that I can hang the feeder anywhere because squirrels and other animals don’t bother with Nyjer seed (provided that you have a quality non-chewable feeder). And once you understand the Goldfinches’ needs, they are easy to please and very pleasing to watch.

Happy bird watching!?

Garden Gate: Episode 12 – Buy Canadian and Buy Local

donald

CHEX TV air date: Fri. May 17th, 2013

Click here to watch this episode of?The Garden Gate.

There has been a great deal of interest lately in Buying Local and Buying Canadian, so I invited another local entrepreneur in to talk further about the importance of buying local and buying Canadian.

Donald Fraser and I worked together for many years at Peterborough Green-Up. Donald is now a writer and also runs a local?culinary tour in downtown Peterborough. This popular event takes you into the “backrooms” of restaurants, cafes and local brew pubs for a first hand taste of many great things. Talk to the chefs and owners to find out about new temptations!

Visit?http://www.ptbolocalfoods.ca/ for more information.

Garden Gate: Episode 11 – Hummingbirds and Orioles

Hummingbird-1CHEX TV air date: Fri. May 3rd, 2013

Click here to watch this episode of??The Garden Gate.

It’s May!? The hummingbirds will be spotted any day now in our area. It’s time to get your feeders out!!

I often have customers ask me, despite being diligent about filling their feeders,?why they don’t seem to get any hummingbirds. There could be a few reasons. Here are some tips to help you out.

-choose a quality feeder that has red colour on it
-hummingbirds will not feed from feeders with insects in them, so ensure your feeder has an ant moat to keep out ants and bee guards to keep out the bees.
-avoid feeders with yellow flowers as this attracts more bees
-get your feeders out early (May 1st in our region)
-fill with sugar solution of 4 parts water to 1 part sugar. Ensure the sugar is dissolved. It’s not necessary to boil the water as long as the sugar dissolves.
-you may also consider a prepared mix as they often include extra?vitamins and nutrients?(like giving the birds orange juice vs. pop)
-do not use food colouring
-hang your feeder in a visble location but not the full sun
-change the liquid weekly (more often in hot weather)
-clean the feeder each time
-hang a red scarf or red flag nearby initially to attract the bird. They are highly attracted to the red.

Hummingbirds love certain types of flowers. So include a wide variety whenever possible. Here are some of my favourites to attract the hummingbirds:
Lantana, Butterfly bush, Lamium, Salvia, Trumpet vine, Morning glory, Columbine, Honeysuckle, Bee Balm, Fushia, Weigela, Petunia’s, Impatiens and even Scarlet runner beans!

Orioles
orioleLike hummingbirds are attacted to red, Orioles are attracted to orange. They also drink nectar in the same concentration at the hummingbird.? So pick out a feeder similar to the one recommended above but in orange!? Orioles will also eat orange slices and grape jelly!? Feeders are available for both of these options.

Orioles are a little harder to attract and keep around. They don’t cruise through gardens as easily as the hummingbirds do.? They can be found where tall trees exist, at the edges of forests and along rivers. So not everyone can attract the oriole.

Orioles also tend to move with the bloom. So if flowers have finished blooming in your yard, the bird?may continue to move north to find more blooms to drink the nectar from.

I have been able to keep orioles in my garden but not after being very consistent about providing them with a food source. It took them about 4 years of feeding before they finally stayed for a longer period than normal. So far I have been unable to find a nest, but I have see the young at my feeder.

 

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